Go to GRAND CANYON Explorer home page

Day 4 - Utah Flats Route to Bright Angel Campground

Back to day 3
Back to Index
Forward to day 5
We were up around 7:00 and had bagels with peanut butter for breakfast again. The morning was cool but not really cold. By 8:00 we had the gear packed up and were on the trail. After 45 minutes or so of hiking we were back on Utah Flats. The trail seemed to get less and less distinct as we approached Utah Flats and we lost it a couple of times. Going back across Utah Flats and Cactus Alley we lost it numerous times. I was sure we were taking the same route, just not exactly the same trail. As we approached the southeast end of Utah Flats it got stranger and stranger. We were hoping to stop at the same spot just above Piano Alley where we had stopped on the way up but we never got there and I don't know why. The odd thing is that in some places we had been following our own footprints that we made on the way up so I know we were going the right way for the most part. But something somewhere was different. When we got to the break in Utah Flats that leads down into Piano Alley we stopped there for a while. It was just before 10:00.

By 10:20 we were at the bottom of Piano Alley which was just as much fun going down as up. A half-hour later we were at the flat rest spot just above the hairy section of the trail. I knew that this was not going to be fun. We took another short rest and tried to psyche ourselves up for it. By 11:00 we were on the way down and it was steep and slippery for most of the way down. There were little sections here and there that were easier but for the most part the trail was pretty bad. We never had any encounter with "the cliff" or "the detour around it" on the way down and we were almost to the bottom before I realized this. I don't know what happened there either. I would have expected the trail to come to the edge of the cliff and to have to detour around it but more people must be using the detour route and that trail must have been more obvious and easier to follow. I also don't remember going down the section that I carried Robin's pack up on though I am sure we must have gone down the same way. The bottom of that section should have had a little exposure but I don't remember seeing that either. It was a very odd descent but not as bad as we thought it would be. There were some spectacular views of Phantom Ranch and also of Bright Angel Campground on the way down.

By 12:00 we were at the bottom and back in Bright Angel Campground. There were not many people around and we had out choice of sites. We took site number 2, the first one at the northeast corner of the campground, next to the bridge. This is the third time that I have used this site and it is starting to feel like home. After setting up camp we ate lunch and then headed up to Phantom Ranch to check in for our meals and have a couple of well deserved beers.

We didn't do much else that afternoon except hang around camp and relax and watch the hikers and backpackers come down and fill up the campground. We both got out our books and read for a while. Robin was a little cold but I thought that the afternoon was very nice. The thermometer at the entrance to Bright Angel Campground read 55 degrees. When it finally started to get dark we headed back up to Phantom Ranch to hang out there and wait for the dinner bell. We had the stew dinner again that night and it was just as good as ever. The chocolate cake for desert is a really nice touch.

After dinner we hung around at the Beer Hall for a while and talked with a very nice couple from San Diego that we met during dinner. Phantom Ranch was one of the favorite spots and they were becoming regulars. They had done some backpacking at other places in California but had never done any in the Canyon and I was trying to tell them about all the really cool places they could go if they wanted to do some backpacking here. They were staying in the dorms and had just come down with day packs and seemed very content with just being at Phantom Ranch and being at the bottom of the Grand Canyon.

This was the most comfortable night for sleeping yet, cool but not very cold. I only woke up a couple of times during the night and got back to sleep easily each time.


Morning sun on Phantom Canyon

Back on Utah Flats

View looking down Piano Alley

Robin near the bottom of Piano Alley

View of Phantom Ranch from Utah Flats Route

View of Bright Angel Campground and gold colored cottonwoods from the Utah Flats Route

Robin enjoying a well deserved beer at the Phantom Ranch Cantina

Back to day 3
Back to Index
Forward to day 5

[ Grand Canyon Home | South Rim trails | North Rim trails | Trip reports ]
Copyright © Bob Ribokas, 1994-2024, all rights reserved. This publication and its text and photos may not be copied for commercial use without the express written permission of Bob Ribokas.