BILL HALL - THUNDER RIVER - RIVER ROUTE - DEER CREEK
May 28 - 31, 1998
Bob Anderson
INTRODUCTION
I have been hiking the Grand Canyon for about five years. During this period, I have completed seven trips. However, with the exception of a rim-to-rim hike on the corridor trails, all of my trips have been on the South Rim. So, when I began planning a trip for May 1998, I decided to focus on the North Rim.
There are five rim-to-river trails on the North Rim. I hiked the North Kaibab trail as part of my rim-to-rim trip, and the North Bass and Nankoweap trails are probably too difficult for me to hike solo. That left only the Deer Creek and Thunder River trails.
In planning recent trips, I have found the book "Hiking Grand Canyon National Park" by Ron Adkinson to be an excellent resource. In his book Ron describes the Thunder River-River Route-Deer Creek hike as "the most memorable and rewarding loop via a trail in the Grand Canyon." This hike appeared to be within my capabilities, and May is a good time of year for this trip, so I applied for and received the necessary backcountry permit.
The trailhead for the Thunder River trail is at Indian Hollow. The Bill Hall trail provides a shortcut to the Thunder River trail, reducing the distance hiked by about 3 miles. There does not appear to be anything especially scenic about the segment of the Thunder River trail between Indian Hollow and the Bill Hall trail, so I decided to use the Bill Hall trail at both the beginning and end of my hike.
The itinerary for my trip was:
Day 1: Hike the Bill Hall and Thunder River trails to Upper Tapeats camp.
Day 2: Hike down the west side of Tapeats Creek to the Colorado River and then follow the River Route to Deer Creek camp.
Day 3: During the morning, dayhike Deer Creek Narrows to the Colorado River. During the afternoon, hike the Deer Creek trail to Surprise Valley.
Day 4: Hike the Thunder River and Bill Hall trails to the North Rim.
One aspect of this trip that concerned me was reaching the Bill Hall trailhead, which requires a drive of 30 miles over gravel and dirt Forest Roads. Fortunately, I found these roads to be in good condition, allowing me to reach the trailhead without incident while driving a subcompact passenger car. I wanted to get an early start on the first day of my trip, so I camped overnight near the trailhead.
DAY ONE - MAY 28TH
The first day of my trip, I hiked the Bill Hall and Thunder River trails to Upper Tapeats camp, a distance of 10.4 miles. This hike is somewhat unusual for the Grand Canyon in that there are three distinct descents separated by two level or gently sloping traverses. The descents are from the trailhead to the Esplanade; from the Esplanade to Surprise Valley; and from Surprise Valley to Tapeats Creek. The traverses are across the Esplanade and Surprise Valley.
From the trailhead, the Bill Hall trail follows an old jeep road a short distance. It then descends approximately 500 vertical feet, contours around Monument Point, and descends another 1,000 feet to the Esplanade. At the Esplanade, the Bill Hall trail joins the Thunder River trail.
Many segments of the Bill Hall trail are steep and rocky. I took special care in hiking the steeper sections of this trail, but I still fell at one particularly difficult spot. Just after contouring around Monument Point, hikers must negotiate a 15-foot downclimb. Most people probably do this with their packs on. I'm pretty clumsy, so I lowered my pack using a length of nylon cord and then slid down on my behind. Either way, this downclimb is not a major obstacle.
The Esplanade is a broad sandstone terrace. The trail across the Esplanade is faint but is easily followed. The trail is not visible where it crosses large areas of slickrock. Instead, cairns indicate the direction of travel. After the steep descent from Monument Point, I enjoyed the easy hike across the Esplanade.
The descent from the Esplanade to Surprise Valley is steep and rocky. However, the footing is firm and steeper sections of the trail are moderated by switchbacks. Although longer in distance, I found it to be a much easier hike than the descent from the Bill Hall trailhead to the Esplanade.
The hike across Surprise Valley is an easy one. However, the heat seems to gather in this valley, making it just a little hotter than surrounding areas. At two points in Surprise Valley, the Thunder River trail intersects trails that lead to Deer Creek. Both of these intersections are marked by large cairns.
The descent from Surprise Valley to Tapeats Creek camp is a steep but comparatively easy hike. Shortly after beginning this descent, you get your first look at Thunder Spring, a river that exits two caves in the canyon wall. A short spur trail allows you to hike directly up to Thunder Spring. This side trip is a must--if not to experience the power of Thunder Spring, then to rest, rehydrate, and take photographs. After leaving Thunder Spring, the trail continues its descent to the bank of Tapeats Creek. Upper Tapeats camp is located about one-quarter mile below this point on the west side of the creek.
Upper Tapeats camp is a pleasant place. It is located directly adjacent to Tapeats Creek, which carries water year-round. There are two individual campsites and one group site, plus a toilet. Some shade is provided by Cottonwood trees that grow along the creek.
DAY TWO - MAY 29TH
This day's itinerary called for me to hike down the west side of Tapeats Creek to the Colorado River and then to follow the River Route to Deer Creek camp. This is a hike of 6.4 miles.
There are two trails from Upper Tapeats camp to the Colorado River: one follows the west bank of Tapeats Creek; the other the east bank. The Park Service recommends that you take the east trail, as it is an easier hike. However, this requires two fords of Tapeats Creek, which are not feasible during the Spring and at other times of high water runoff.
The character of the west trail varies. The initial segment of this trail follows the creek's bank and is an easy hike. Later segments frequently require that you hike up a short but steep ascent, often followed by a short and equally steep descent. During the latter portion of this hike, the trail follows a contour high above Tapeats Creek. To reach the beach at the confluence of Tapeats Creek and the Colorado River, you hike down a draw by way of a series of steep and rocky switchbacks. When hiking from Upper Tapeats camp to the Colorado River, care needs to be taken in route finding, as there are a few false trails that lead in unwanted directions.
About one-quarter mile below Upper Tapeats camp, you reach a point where you must lower your pack and downclimb a 15 foot ledge. A hiker I spoke with at Upper Tapeats camp said that he had bypassed this section of the trail by removing his hiking boots and walking along the edge of the creek, holding onto creekside foliage for balance. Because of the high volume of water being carried by Tapeats Creek, I decided not to attempt this route.
Lower Tapeats camp is located on the beach on the west side of the confluence of Tapeats Creek and the Colorado River. There are no specific campsites; you simply pitch your tent on the beach. While there, I met the largest hiking party I have ever seen in the Grand Canyon. The leader of this party was a man of 55. Other members of this party included the man's son and daughter, their children, some in-laws, and other friends. They were doing the same hike I was but in the opposite direction. They were a happy group, and I enjoyed talking with them.
The River Route consists of two distinct segments. The first segment follows the Colorado River 1.3 miles from Lower Tapeats camp to the beach at Hundred and Thirtyfive Mile Rapids. There is not a trail--you simply start walking down the beach. I had looked forward to this hike, as I envisioned an easy stroll along a sandy beach. This was not to be the case. During much of this hike you walk over and around basketball to car-sized boulders. This is not a difficult hike, but it is slow and tedious. About one-half mile into this hike, a large rock, about 50 feet high, protrudes out of the water, blocking your progress. To continue, you have to climb up and then down the other side. The descent is steep and requires the use of both hands and feet. I lowered my pack first using nylon cord. When I reached the beach at Hundred and Thirtyfive Mile Rapids, I found the sandy white beach I had expected earlier. This would be a great place to camp.
I mentioned earlier that I had relied on the book "Hiking Grand Canyon National Park" by Ron Adkinson in planning this trip. In his book Ron states that "Tapeats Creek is the last source for fresh water until reaching Deer Creek, so hikers are advised to tank up there." I'm not sure what Ron is referring to, as you can walk down to the Colorado River and get all the water you need. At times the Colorado River carries large quantities of silt, which clogs filters and makes the water undrinkable. On these occasions you have to put the water in a large container and wait for the sediment to settle. Perhaps, this is what Ron had in mind.
By the time I reached the beach at Hundred and Thirtyfive Mile Rapids, it was almost 11:00 a.m. and very hot. Rather than continue, I found a shady spot to wait out the heat.
About 3:30 p.m. I resumed my hike. The beach at Hundred and Thirtyfive Mile Rapids is the end of the "River" segment of this hike and the beginning of the "Overland" segment of this hike. At the most westerly end of the beach, a large cairn indicates the continuation of the River Route. From this point to Deer Creek camp, the River Route follows a distinct trail. After leaving the beach, the trail steeply ascends the Canyon wall and then follows a contour for a mile or so until it reaches a location below what is identified as Point 2677 on the USGS topographic map. After a short and relatively easy climb, you reach a point immediately to the northwest of Point 2677. From here, you have an excellent view of Deer Creek canyon. The trail descends moderately, leading you to a point just above the beginning of Deer Creek Narrows.
The best campsites at Deer Creek camp are located on the west side of the creek, so a ford of this creek is required. Fortunately, Deer Creek does not carry a large volume of water, making the ford an easy one. One nice campsite is located a short distance north of the beginning of Deer Creek Narrows. There are additional campsites about one-eighth mile further to the north. All of these campsites are located immediately adjacent to Deer Creek, which carries water year-round. A toilet is located a short distance from these campsites.
A few years ago, a hiker burning toilet paper started a fire in this area. Although dead and charred trees are still in evidence, many of the cottonwood trees were unharmed, and the other foliage has regrown. I found Deer Creek camp to be an attractive place to camp.
When I arrived at Deer Creek, all of the established campsites were taken. I finally set-up camp in a small area about 15 feet from an occupied campsite. I felt bad about intruding on the privacy of this party, but I was tired, and there was no where else to go. I asked and they said that my presence would not disturb them.
DAY THREE - MAY 30TH
This day's itinerary called for me to day-hike down Deer Creek Narrows to the Colorado River and then, later in the day, to hike to Surprise Valley where I would camp overnight.
Deer Creek Narrows begins just south of Deer Creek camp. At the beginning of the narrows, the creek widens, creating a pool of sorts. This is a very scenic spot and is popular with both hikers and rafters.
The trail through Deer Creek Narrows to the Colorado River is located on a ledge on the west side of the narrows. As it proceeds toward the Colorado River, the trail follows a contour but the creek gradually descends. So, as you near the Colorado River, Tapeats Creek is 50 feet or so below you. At a few points, the ledge is not very wide, although I always found it to be wide enough for easy passage. A short distance before reaching the Colorado, the trail leaves the ledge and descends by way of switchbacks to a beach on the Colorado.
In a trail report on Bob Ribokas' web site, Bob Groves indicates that he had seen poison ivy while hiking Deer Creek Narrows. This surprised me, as I have never seen any poison ivy in the Grand Canyon. Still, I kept an open eye and, sure enough, found a large bunch of poison ivy a short distance before the trail reaches the beach.
When I reached the beach at the end of Deer Creek Narrows, I found three separate rafting parties. A group of 15 or so rafters were just beginning to hike through Deer Creek Narrows on their way to Thunder Spring. Many were wearing nothing more than bathing suits and Teva sandals. I had to wonder how many of these rafters would successfully complete the relatively long hike to Thunder Spring and how many would know to avoid the poison ivy.
Deer Creek exits the Narrows about 100 feet above the beach, creating an attractive waterfall. After taking some photographs, I began my return trip. I had time to spare, so I stopped at the pools and rested for a while. Afterward, I returned to my campsite and decided to do some reading until 4:00 p.m., when I would begin my hike to Surprise Valley. Before long I realized that this was not the place for reading, as there were large numbers of rafters passing my campsite on their way to Thunder Spring. They were all courteous and friendly, but after a while I relocated behind some shrubs that border Deer Creek.
The afternoon's trip was meant to be an easy one. My itinerary called for me to hike out of Deer Creek canyon and to camp in Surprise Valley. A short distance after leaving Deer Creek camp, the trail crosses Deer Creek and begins a steep ascent. During the first part of this ascent, there is not a trail as such. Instead, you follow a route marked by cairns, while climbing over and around small to medium sized boulders. I found this hike to be very difficult. Perhaps, it was the weight of the extra water I was carrying or the late afternoon start. After a while the trail passes a short distance from Deer Creek spring and begins to moderate.
About 7:00 p.m. I found a nice campsite in a small wash in Surprise Valley. I had not traveled far but I was very tired. I set up camp, had dinner, and went to sleep.
DAY FOUR - MAY 31ST
This was the last day of my trip. I woke early and felt good. In contrast to the previous day's hike to Surprise Valley, this day's climb through the Redwall to the Esplanade seemed almost easy.
The intersection of the Bill Hall and Thunder River trails is located almost due west of the southerly extension of Monument Point. While hiking across the Esplanade, I kept an eye open for, and soon found, this intersection. As expected, one trail headed northwest; I took this to be the continuation of the Thunder River Trail. The other trail headed northeast toward Monument Point; I took this to be the Bill Hall trail. I continued hiking for some distance before I realized that Monument Point was a substantial distance behind me and that I clearly was not where I was supposed to be. At this point, I sat down, studied my topo map, and realized that I had missed the Bill Hall trail. The return trip took about 45 minutes.
I was greatly irritated at my unplanned side-trip on the Thunder River trail--not so much for missing the Bill Hall trail, as for continuing to hike when I clearly was not headed in the right direction. In retrospect, two things caused this to happen. First, I saw what I thought was the intersection of the Bill Hall and Thunder River trails, so there was no reason to continue looking for the Bill Hall trail. Second, most major trail intersections in the Grand Canyon are marked by a large cairn. This was not the case at the intersection of the Bill Hall and Thunder River trails.
By the time I retraced my steps and found the Bill Hall trail, I was beginning to feel tired. I noted above that sections of the Bill Hall trail are very steep. I live close to sea level and find steeply ascending hikes above 5,000 feet to be quite difficult. The elevation of the North Rim at the Bill Hall trailhead is 7,200 feet. So, I found myself to be extremely tired as I hiked the last mile or so to the trailhead.
FINAL THOUGHTS
This trip was a difficult but enjoyable one. I was happy that I was able to complete the hike as planned without deviation from my itinerary. It is one of the most scenic hikes in the Grand Canyon with Thunder River and Deer Creek Narrows being highlights of the trip. My only disappointment was the routefinding problem I encountered in locating the Bill Hall trail.
The itinerary for this trip is, in most respects, a simple one. However, the Park Service requires that you specify in advance where you will stay on every night of your trip. So, a little extra time spent in trip planning is a worthwhile investment. I have discussed below four trip planning issues.
A number of persons I spoke with during my trip hiked from the North Rim to Upper Tapeats camp over two days. My endurance as a hiker is average at best, but I did not find the hike from the North Rim to Upper Tapeats camp to be difficult. For experienced hikers in good condition, this hike can comfortably be done in one day.
The hike from Upper Tapeats camp to Deer Creek camp covers a distance of only 6.4 miles and is, in many respects, quite simple. However, route finding during the hike from Upper Tapeats camp to the Colorado River can slow your progress. Also, the hike from Lower Tapeats camp to the beach at Hundred and Thirtyfive Mile Rapids is time consuming. So, although the hike from Upper Tapeats camp to Deer Creek camp can easily be done in one day, it should not be assumed that this is an easy hike.
A third issue concerns the hike out from Deer Creek camp to the North Rim. Originally, I had planned to do this hike in one day. In retrospect, this would have been a mistake. For me, and I suspect for most persons, this hike is best done over two days.
A final issue relates to direction of travel. Most persons I spoke with hiked down to Deer Creek camp and out from Upper Tapeats camp. This has two advantages in that it allows you to avoid the steep climb out of Deer Creek canyon and allows you to hike the "Overland" portion of the River Route during the morning when the weather is cool. The only disadvantage of this route is that locating the starting point of the River Route from Deer Creek camp can be difficult. I hiked this trip in the opposite direction: down to Upper Tapeats camp and out from Deer Creek camp. There are a number of reasons for this, the most important being that it allowed me to see what I wanted to see and to hike the distances I wanted to travel with minimal layover time. So, my final conclusion is that there is no one "best" direction of travel. Instead, every hiker must decide on an itinerary based on what he wants to see, how far he wants to travel each day, and his experience in hiking the Grand Canyon.
Bob Anderson
Huntington Beach, CA
June 18, 1998
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