BRIGHT ANGEL - TONTO - BOUCHER TRAILS
March 31 - April 4, 1998
Bob Anderson
INTRODUCTION
The initial idea for this trip came during an October 1997 Grand Canyon
trip, when I hiked the Hermit trail to Hermit Creek camp. While there, I
talked with a number of persons who had hiked the Boucher trail. They
all reported that the Boucher was a difficult but exciting and scenic
hike.
After returning home, I began to consider future trips to the Grand
Canyon. All of my previous hikes had been on the maintained corridor
trails or on the easier of the nonmaintained trails. A trip that
included the Boucher trail seemed a logical next step.
Except for a short dayhike from Hermit Creek camp to Granite Rapids, I
had not hiked the Tonto trail. So, I decided to include in my itinerary
the section of the Tonto between the Boucher and Bright Angel trails.
In most respects, hiking the Boucher, Tonto, and Bright Angel trails is
straightforward and does not require a great deal of advance planning.
One aspect of the trip that does require some thought is whether to hike
down the Boucher trail and out the Bright Angel, or the reverse. Most
hiking books on the Grand Canyon recommend the former. The main
rationale for this recommendation is that route finding is easier when
hiking down the Boucher. Also, most people seem to prefer hiking down
rather than up a steep trail.
On his web site, Bob Ribokas has a trail report on his May 1994 Hermit -
Boucher trip. In his report, Bob recommends hiking up the Boucher,
stating that "the trail is so steep in places that coming down with a
full pack would be dangerous." I'm not particularly agile, so I decided
to take Bob's advice and hike up the Boucher.
DAY ONE - MARCH 31ST
The first day of this trip was meant to be an easy one. My itinerary
called for me to hike down the Bright Angel trail, proceed west on the
Tonto, and camp overnight at Horne Creek. This is a hike of 7.1 miles.
The previous day I had stopped by the Backcountry Reservations Office to
check on trail conditions. The ranger told me that the Bright Angel
trail was icy and that in-step crampons were recommended. I hadn't
brought any with me, so I went over to the general store to purchase a
pair. The clerk told me that they had run out the previous day. Lacking
any alternative, I decided that I would have to make do without.
After hiking the first two or three switchbacks of the Bright Angel
trail, I came to the realization that the lack of in-step crampons was
going to be a problem. The Bright Angel is a maintained trail and has a
smooth trailbed. Under most circumstances this makes for easy hiking.
When icy, the smooth trailbed, combined with the steepness of the trail
and the weight of a heavy pack, makes walking difficult. After a while I
found that it was easier to walk along the edge of the trail, where the
snow had not been packed down. Still, I fell once on the way down and
almost fell on three or four other occasions.
Before long, the snow thinned out and I reached Indian Gardens. Because
of its location at the approximate midpoint between the South Rim and
Phantom Ranch, Indian Gardens is a terminus of sorts. It contains a
large campground with picnic tables, a corral for mules, benches for
hikers, and toilets. Tap water is available year round.
To reach the Tonto trail west of Indian Gardens, you follow the Plateau
Point trail. Plateau Point is a popular destination of day-hikers and
the mule trains, so you have a lot of company on this trail. After
one-half mile you reach the signed junction of the Plateau Point and
Tonto trails. I headed west and after about one-half hour reached Horne
Creek camp.
Horne Creek camp is not a especially scenic place; it functions
primarily as a stopover point for persons hiking the Tonto. There are
two adjoining campsites that straddle the trail. Horne Creek contains
water year round, but it is contaminated by tailings from the Lost
Orphan, an old uranium mine located on the South Rim. A sign at the
campsite warns hikers not to drink the water. I carried 6 quarts of
water with me from Indian Gardens. This was ample for the evening and
the following day's hike.
It was still pretty early, so I set up camp and explored up and down
Horne Creek canyon. Later, I prepared my standard dinner of Ramen
noodles, Beef Stick, pudding, and coffee. After reading for a few hours,
I turned in.
DAY TWO - APRIL 1ST
When hiking in the Grand Canyon, I normally rise early, setting off at
first light. I decided to sleep late, as the forecast was for cold and
damp weather and my destination was Monument Creek camp, a relatively
easy hike of 8.2 miles.
The segment of the Tonto trail that extends from Indian Gardens to
Boucher Creek can be described in just a few sentences. The trail
consists of long, gently ascending and descending traverses, punctuated
by hikes into and out of the numerous side canyons that drain into the
Colorado. The long traverses are easy to hike and, with only a few
exceptions, require little route finding skill. In contrast, the
descents into major side canyon are often steep and rocky. Also, after
descending into a major side canyon, the location of the trail out of
the canyon is not always obvious.
The hike from Horne Creek to Monument Creek turned out to be a pleasant
one. Early during the day the overcast cleared, and blue skies and a
moderate temperature made for near perfect hiking weather. After leaving
Horne Creek, the Tonto contours around Dana Butte, yielding excellent
views of the inner canyon. During the course of this hike, you cross
Salt Creek and Cedar Spring canyons, both of which contain small camps.
Salt Creek camp is reached by way of a short spur-trail and is the more
scenic of the two. Cedar Spring camp is little more than a wide spot in
the trail. Both camps have only seasonal water.
Before long I arrived at Monument Creek camp, which has one elevated
campsite plus three or four campsites along the creek. There is water in
the creek year-round, and two toilets are located nearby. After setting
up my tent, I spoke with a couple that were staying at a nearby
campsite. They appeared to be in their mid-60's. They said that they had
hiked down the Hermit, had stayed two nights at Hermit Creek camp, and
were now staying two nights at Monument Creek camp. They were veteran
Canyon hikers, and I enjoyed talking with them.
About one-quarter mile west of Monument Creek camp, a spur trail leads
to Granite Rapids. I had hiked this trail last year during my Hermit
trip, and I found it to be unpleasantly steep and rocky. Earlier in the
day, I spoke with some hikers who said they had reached Granite Rapids
by hiking down Monument Creek. I decided to give this a try, but I soon
reached a pour-off that prevented me from proceeding further. So, I
returned to my campsite, ate dinner, read for a few hours, and retired.
DAY THREE - APRIL 2ND
My destination this day was Boucher Creek camp, a hike of 8.3 miles.
During the course of this hike I would descend into and out of Hermit
Creek and Travertine canyons. The hike from Monument Creek canyon to
Hermit Creek canyon--a distance of 3.5 miles--went quickly. During the
first part of this hike you have excellent views of Granite Rapids and
of the hoodoo-like rock formation for which Monument Creek canyon was
named.
Shortly before descending into Hermit Creek canyon I spoke with two
hikers who had come down the Hermit the previous day. One asked if I was
carrying a tent, as my pack looked very light. I couldn't help but think
how much things had changed since my first Grand Canyon trip--an
overnighter at Bright Angel campground. For this two day trip I carried
a huge pack, crammed with all sorts of unnecessary equipment and
clothing. With experience, I have learned what I need when hiking the
Canyon and what I can leave home.
Next to Bright Angel campground, Hermit Creek camp is probably the most
popular destination on the South Rim. It sits on a bench above Hermit
Creek, which has a good flow of water year round. Two toilets are
located just up-canyon of the camp. Last year when I stayed at this
camp, I found that the wooden floor under the toilets was badly
weakened. I was relieved to find that the park service had made
necessary repairs.
After resting a few minutes and talking with some hikers, I refilled my
water bottles and resumed my hike. The location of the Tonto trail
heading west out of Hermit Creek canyon is not immediately obvious (it's
located about 1,000 feet up-canyon). Fortunately, I had been alerted to
this by Bob Spangler, a veteran Canyon hiker whose wife Sharon wrote "On
Foot in the Grand Canyon," one of the most popular and entertaining
books on hiking the South Rim of the Grand Canyon.
Between Hermit Creek and Boucher Creek canyons, the Tonto takes on a
slightly rougher character and is not as well defined. At one point I
lost the trail and no amount of backtracking or searching allowed me to
find it. I generally follow my progress on a topo map, so I was able to
locate the trail on the opposite side of a small ridge. About two-thirds
of the way to Boucher Creek, you descend into Travertine canyon. The
final descent to the bottom of this canyon consists of a series of tight
and extremely steep and rocky switchbacks. These switchbacks reminded me
of the spur trail to Granite Rapids, which I mentioned above.
Boucher Creek camp is pretty basic. There are two campsites, little
shade, and no toilets. Boucher Creek carries a good volume of water year
round. Many hikers probably forego Boucher Creek camp and hike the
additional one and one-half miles to Boucher Rapids. In retrospect, I
wish I had.
I had not seen any other hikers since leaving Hermit Creek camp and
expected to see some at Boucher Creek. I never did and, in fact, did not
see any other hikers until I reached the Dripping Springs trail--two
days later and about two hours from the end of my trip.
After setting up tent, I put on my Teva's and explored up and down
Boucher Creek canyon. Today's hike had been more tiring than I expected,
so I did not go far.
DAY FOUR - APRIL 3RD
Today, my itinerary called for me to hike the Boucher trail to Yuma
Point. This is a distance of only 3.5 miles, but it takes you through
the two ascents that represent the most difficult sections of this
trail.
In his book "Hiking the Grand Canyon," John Annerino states:
If there is one trail in Grand Canyon National Park the
author is reluctant to describe, it's the Boucher Trail.
It's one of the most spectacular trails and one of the
more difficult.
So, I approached this day with both anticipation and apprehension.
You begin this hike by retracing your steps out of Boucher Creek canyon.
After one-third mile you reach the junction of the Tonto and Boucher
trails. This intersection is marked by a cairn. You turn right and after
a short distance begin the ascent through the Redwall to Whites Butte.
This trail is steep, rocky, and physically tiring. About one-half way
through this ascent, the trail disappears in a boulder-clogged ravine.
The climb up this ravine--over and around large boulders--often requires
the use of both hands for balance. The route is marked by cairns,
although route finding is not difficult.
After reaching the top of the Redwall, you begin a gently ascending
traverse. This is a welcome respite from the steep hike through the
Redwall. There are a number of campsites in this area for those who wish
to stop at this point.
After 1.3 miles, you reach the start of the second major ascent. This
hike is much like the ascent through the Redwall but steeper. Near the
end of this ascent, a 10 foot section of the trail is washed out,
requiring that you cross a downward sloping rock slab with considerable
exposure. Immediately afterward, you must climb up a short draw stacked
with large boulders. at a steep angle. I took my gear up this draw in
two trips. Of the entire Boucher trail, this is the only section that
gave me real pause.
Before long, the trail reaches the contour that wraps around Yuma Point
and, a short distance later, you arrive at the campsites below Yuma
Point. These campsites are situated about 300 feet below the trail and
are shaded by several large trees. Immediately below the campsites, a
large slab of slickrock juts out into the canyon, providing panoramic
views of Hermit Gorge and Travertine canyon. Waterpockets in the
slickrock are a source of water for a few days after a rainstorm. The
night I stayed at these campsites, a surprisingly strong wind made
lighting my stove and cooking dinner a major undertaking. However, even
with the wind, I found this to be a beautiful place to camp.
DAY FIVE - APRIL 4TH
This was the last day of my trip. The Boucher does not have a trailhead
on the South Rim and is instead accessed by way of the Hermit and
Dripping Springs trails. The distance from Yuma Point to the Hermit
trailhead at the South Rim is 5 miles.
From Yuma Point the Boucher trail contours around the west wall of
Hermit Creek canyon. This trail is narrow and has considerable exposure,
made all the more exciting by occasional washouts. After 2.3 miles you
reach the signed intersection with the Dripping Springs trail. You turn
left and begin an easy and pleasant hike to the junction with the Hermit
trail. Midway through this hike, I met three hikers coming the other
way. They said that this was their first trip in the Grand Canyon and
that they were going to hike the Boucher, Tonto, and South Bass trails.
They appeared to be experienced hikers, but I was a little surprised
that someone with no prior Grand Canyon hiking experience would attempt
a trip of this difficulty.
Once you reach the Hermit trail, you begin a steady and only moderately
steep climb to the South Rim. The Hermit trail was constructed by the
Santa Fe Railroad in 1912. It's evident that a great deal of work went
into constructing this trail, as it is still in reasonably good
condition. Before long, I reached the trailhead, which is located at a
dirt parking lot behind Hermits Rest, and caught a shuttle bus back to
Grand Canyon Village.
FINAL THOUGHTS
Overall, this trip went well. The hike was challenging enough to be
interesting but not so difficult as to be unpleasant. The views of the
inner canyon at many points during the hike were spectacular, and I met
and spoke with many interesting hikers. In retrospect, the only change I
would make would be to stay at Boucher Rapids rather than Boucher Creek
camp. The only real difficulty I encountered during this hike was the
icy section of the Bright Angel trail. In the future, I'll call the
Backcountry Office to check on trail conditions before I leave home.
In planning this trip one decision I had to make was whether to hike up
or down the Boucher trail. The usual rationale given for hiking down the
Boucher is that route finding is easier. I did not find route finding to
be at all difficult. Having now hiked the Boucher, I think that an
experienced hiker can travel this trail either way. The only caveat is
that good conditioning and endurance are needed to comfortably hike up
the Boucher in one day.
A final note on sources. There are a number of excellent books on hiking
the Grand Canyon. I have already mentioned Sharon Spangler's book. A
second book is "Hiking Grand Canyon National Park" by Ron Adkinson. It
covers all of the trails of the North and South Rim and is an excellent
resource for trip planning. The mileages shown in this trail report were
obtained from this book.
Bob Anderson
Huntington Beach, CA
May 7, 1998
| 