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Day 3 - South Kaibab and Clear Creek Trails to the Ottoman Amphitheater

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05:52 - Cedar Ridge

I left the house at 3:10, arrived at the Backcountry Office at 4:20 and caught the village route bus at 4:40. I got to the visitor center just in time to catch the 5am Kaibab route bus to the South Kaibab trailhead, arriving there around 5:10.

The sun is just starting to come up. It is very windy and cool down here, not as bad as at the trailhead though. It is a nice clear morning and looks like it will be a beautiful day. Only 6 more miles to Phantom Ranch.

08:15 - Just below The Tipoff

I am making excellent time and I am already in the inner gorge on a cliff overlooking the Colorado River, Bright Angel campground and Phantom Ranch. It’s pretty shady in the upper reaches here but I should be back in the sun soon. There has been a nice cool breeze blowing most of the morning. I got a little hot coming down through the Redwall but below that it cooled off again. I still have my sweatshirt on, but may have to get rid of it soon. It is an absolutely gorgeous day and the sky is the most wonderful shade or Arizona blue, not a cloud in it right now. I can hear the rapids below me and birds singing above. There have been numerous Canyon Wrens from about the Redwall on down.

I left Cedar Ridge at 6:20 and got to Skeleton Point right at 7am. I didn’t stay there long, just a few minutes. This may be my last stop before Phantom Ranch I think. I am still hoping to make it there by 10am.

10:00 - Phantom Ranch

I arrived here a little before 10---9:50 or so---but just sat outside, changed into my Tevas and finished off my water. I’ve got a cup of coffee and some peanut M&Ms for a mid-morning snack, something to tide me over until lunch. I actually feel pretty good considering I just hiked to the bottom of the Grand Canyon in about 5 hours. The actual hiking time was only 4 hours, perhaps a little more. It feels good to be here and good to know that I don’t have to do anything for 3 or 4 hours. I still need to decide what time I really do want to head out from here.

It is very pleasant down here and not as hot as I thought it would be. I didn’t take off my sweatshirt until just before crossing the river. It is cool and breezy right now and I might want to put it back on. It’s early yet though and the sun has not been in here that long to it should still warm up.

I split the seam of my pants this morning when I bent over to put my backpack on... not fun. I will try to patch them up with some duct tape when I get to camp tonight. I do have a spare pair with me that I decided to bring at the last minute so it’s no big deal. I am going to be alone most of the time anyway.

13:00 - Clear Creek Trail

I am almost back up on the Tonto Platform, resting in some shade along the final ascent. I left Phantom Ranch at 13:00 as I had originally planned. I didn’t see much difference between leaving at 14:00 and leaving at 13:00 as far as the temperature. The lower part of the Clear Creek Trail was a little rough... warm... but I started picking up breezes higher up that cooled things off. There have been some nice shady spots in the Tapeats but this is likely the end of those. I am hoping the breezes continue up on top. I hope I can make the planned camp but if not it’s no big deal as I have all day tomorrow to finish. All I have to do is go about a half of a mile more and then I can camp anywhere I like.

16:15 - Closing in on the Ottoman Amphitheater

I am about a mile west of Demaray Point, about 1.75 miles from camp... as the raven flies. It’s probably about 2.5 miles by trail though. My feet are starting to get tired but I want to make it around the bend at Demaray Point at least, so I can at least see the Ottoman Amphitheater. I will decide what to do once I get there. I am taking a short break in some shade here to try and regenerate a little.

18:15 - Camp Sweet Camp

Well, I am not at the camp I wanted to be at but I am close, probably within a half of a mile by trail. I just could not go any further. I rounded the bend below Demaray Point at 17:20 and starting looking for a place to camp, It’s very rocky here and a tight fit but it will do for the night.

I arrived here around 17:45 and luckily I got the tent setup before the wind started. It has been blowing like crazy for about a half of an hour now. As soon as I had something to eat for dinner I climbed inside the tent to get out of the wind. I will watch the sun set on the cliffs from in here.

I am utterly exhausted and I hope that means I will sleep well tonight. I can’t wait to sleep and I hope wind dies down after sunset and does not keep up like this all night.


Sunrise behind Vishu Temple from Cedar Ridge - Grand Canyon, Arizona

Redwall switchbacks - South Kaibab Trail, Grand Canyon, Arizona

Working on the pipeline break - Phantom Ranch, Grand Canyon, Arizona

Colorado River and the Inner Gorge - Clear Creek Trail, Grand Canyon, Arizona

Collared Lizard - Clear Creek Trail, Grand Canyon, Arizona

Water in potholes - Sumner Wash, Clear Creek Trail, Grand Canyon, Arizona

Ottoman Amphitheater - Clear Creek Trail, Grand Canyon, Arizona

Camp for the first night along the Clear Creek Trail - Grand Canyon, Arizona

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