Breakfast was at 6 and I was on the trail around 7. It was already very warm and it got warmer and warmer as I headed north. It was hot by the time I got through The Box and reached the wide-open section of Bright Angel Canyon just north of that. I set myself a fairly slow and easy pace as I was really in no hurry. It was 14 miles to the rim and then another couple of miles up there from the trailhead to the lodge, but I had all day to do this. I was probably doing a little more than 2 miles per hour on the lower portion of the North Kaibab Trail and a little less than this on the upper sections when it started to climb. I got to the lodge just after 3 so I averaged about 2 miles per hour for the entire day.

I made the short side trip to Ribbon Falls on the way up but I did not linger long. After a very brief stop, only long enough to snap a couple of photos, I returned to the main trail and just kept heading for the rim.

I was very happy to discover the pitcher of ice-cold lemonade outside the residence of the pump station operator. I still think that was the best glass of lemonade that I ever had or ever will have. I had already been hiking for about 3 or 4 hours when I reached there and the temperature had to be close to 100°F.

Shortly after the pumping station is where the trail begins its upward climb. The section from Phantom Ranch up to that point is uphill but only at a very gradual pace. The trail only gains about 1,000 in elevation during the first 7 miles and then another 5,000 feet in the last 7 miles. It was a hot, sweaty climb but it was beautiful and I stopped several times just to sit and rest and take in the view. The north rim is a lot different than the south rim as there is a lot more water and therefore a lot more vegetation.

The upper sections of the trail were particularly nasty. It was hot and I was getting tied and my feet were getting sore and all of the flies buzzing around the mule crap were a real nuisance. By the time I reached those last few switchbacks at the top I was ready for the hike to be over. The walk from the trailhead to the Grand Canyon Lodge was positively grueling.